Chef Tony Susi takes the reins at the Charles Hotel’s eternally Italian restaurant
For more than 20 years, this restaurant inside the Charles Hotel was Rialto, where chef Jody Adams made her name and diners’ nights with her warm, sophisticated take on Italian-influenced food. Regulars still miss her slow-roasted duck. It can be hard to move on after a long relationship.
Rialto closed in 2016, and the restaurant became Benedetto, where chef Michael Pagliarini (Giulia, Moëca) served duck, too, inside golden tortelloni wreathed with broccoli rabe, dried cherries, and shavings of Parmigiano. In 2021, Benedetto was replaced with Bar Enza, a collaboration between the hotel and the Lyons Group (behind Scampo, Summer Shack, and many more). Michelin-starred chef Mark Ladner brought meatballs the size of small cabbages, the 100-layer lasagna he was known for at New York’s Del Posto, and momentary buzz. Now Ladner has moved into a corporate role, and Bar Enza has a new executive chef: Tony Susi, whose food you may have eaten over the years in restaurants from Olives to Geppetto to Capo to his own former Sage.
When it comes to culinary talent, that’s an embarrassment of riches. If nothing else, the evolution of the space speaks to how many different ways there are to interpret “Italian restaurant.” Meanwhile, across the lobby, Henrietta’s Table has been serving farm-focused New England fare for almost 30 years. (It and Rialto both opened around the same time as Susi’s tiny nook in the North End.)