Mid-morning on a steely grey Saturday, a long line begins to form in the middle of Brattle Square. Three young women in knit caps and nametags stand at the head of the line, protected by a folding card table piled high with plates. The line curves along Brattle Street into Massachusetts Ave. all the way down to C’est Bon. It circles around the Church Street T-entrance and then doubles up, heading back towards Brattle. Line-waiters fidget in the cold, adjusting their winter gear, shushing their kids, and checking the time.